Princess Cut Blouse Design in Raglan Style

Since the princess cut blouse and the raglan style sari blouse are quite a rage these days, we picked the same for the tutorial. No matter even if your sari is mundane with less to no works on it, a great blouse design can instantly add glamor to your look, giving a luxury feel to your sari. Most Bollywood celebrity blouses also have princess cut blouse designs that go very well with sheer or net sarees that are see-through. These princess cut blouse designs can come in an array of designs and patterns. But let’s start with a basic princess cut blouse design tutorial.

For those who have hands on experience with their sewing machine, here is an elaborate drafting instruction on blouse cutting with step by step guide to make a princess cut blouse.

While making blouse designs, cutting is the most important thing. This not only gives a shape, but the fit and style also depends on the blouse cutting and patterns too.

Princess cut blouse design Measurements

Length = 14 ½”
Chest = 36”
Shoulder = 14”
Waist = 30”
Sleeve length = 9”
Round Arm = 13”

Constructions 

For the princess cut blouse back design:

    (1-13)   = ¼ waist + ½”
    (13-14) = 1 ½” or (1-2)
    (14-15) = ½”
    (16)      = centre of (8-6)
    (17)      = centre of (14-2)
    (17-18) = ½”
    (6-A),(13-B) & (15-C) = 1 ½”(for seam)

If u want sleeve less pattern in a princess cut blouse design:  then, (0-3) = 1/6 chest

For the front profile of a princess cut blouse design:

    (0-1) = Length + ½”
    (1-2) = 1 ½”
    (2-2′) = 1 1/2″ (in turn 1” and ½ “ for seam)
    (0-3) = 1/6 chest + 1 ½”
    (0-4) = ½ shoulder + ½”
    (4-5) = straight line
    (3-6) = ¼ chest + ¾” (for tight fitting – 1/4 ch+1/4″ (or) 1/2″
    (7-4) = 4” or 1/12 chest + 1”
    (4-10) = ½” down
    (8-3) = 1”
    (7-9-8) = front neck curve
    (11-5) = 1”
    (13) = ½”
    (1-14) = ¼ waist + ½”
    (2-15) = 1/12 chest + 1”
    (15-16) = 3/4”
    ( 12 ) = centre of (10-6)
    (6-A) & (14-B) = 1 ½” for seam

For sleeveless pattern take this measurement:   (0-3) = 1/6 chest
For sleeves:

    (0-1) = length + ½”
    (1-2) = 1 ½”
    (0-3) = 1/12 chest + 1”
    (3-4) = 1/6 chest + ¾ “
    (1-5) = ½ Round Arm
    (6-7) = ½”
    (8) = centre of (0-4)
    (8-9) = ¾”
    (10) = centre of (8-4)
    (10-11) = ¾”
    (4-a), (5-b) & (7-c) = 1 ½” (for seam)

How to cut this blouse when the back draft 3 & 6, 1 & 13 measurements are not same if we calculate and draw?
From 6 to 13 is a slanting line. (3-6)= 1/4 chest + 3/4″
(1-13) = (3-6) minus 1/2″ (or) take waist round then, calculate 1/4 waist + 1/2″

Princess Line Directed From Neckline

• Go for darted sari blouse patterns: If you’ve selected raglan style for making princess line blouse then your first requirement is to go for darted sari blouse patterns
• Create back & front patterns: For this you’ll have to make paper patterns of both back and front bodices for a darted raglan style sari blouse
• Create seam: This pattern will also feature seam allowances. First cut off all the dart lines and then cut the waistline darts towards necklines

Back Bodice Pattern for Princess Line

• Create two parts: Back bodice is quite easy to obtain. All you need is to just cut off the extra dart allowance and separate the two parts
• Create the princess line: Now take the impressions on another pattern paper while adding seam allowance at the dart line so as to create the princess line
• Shape the neckline: Now mark the notches for joining and grains for cutting
• Take the front bodice pattern: For this you’ll have to stick all the darts except the waist line dart
• Create dart manipulation: The pattern you’ve create will now result in a 3-dimensional structure. This process of transferring darts from one place to the other is technically known as dart manipulation
• Trace the outlines: Now after getting the 3D structure, press the pattern over a pattern paper and traced the outlines
• Obtain the princess line: Since the darts are now manipulated into a seam line, you’ll now obtain your princess line
• Shape the neckline: Add seam allowance to the freshly cut princess seam and shape the neckline
• Pattern cutting: Mark the notches for joining and grain lines for pattern cutting
• Get the final font patterns: For this, you’ll have to cut the patterns. And your final front patterns for princess seam blouse are ready

Please comment your suggestions,
Note; all images from pinterest.com

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