Princess Cut Blouse Design in Raglan Style

Since the princess cut blouse and the raglan style sari blouse are quite a rage these days, we picked the same for the tutorial. No matter even if your sari is mundane with less to no works on it, a great blouse design can instantly add glamor to your look, giving a luxury feel to your sari. Most Bollywood celebrity blouses also have princess cut blouse designs that go very well with sheer or net sarees that are see-through. These princess cut blouse designs can come in an array of designs and patterns. But let’s start with a basic princess cut blouse design tutorial.

For those who have hands on experience with their sewing machine, here is an elaborate drafting instruction on blouse cutting with step by step guide to make a princess cut blouse.

While making blouse designs, cutting is the most important thing. This not only gives a shape, but the fit and style also depends on the blouse cutting and patterns too.

Princess cut blouse design Measurements

Length = 14 ½”
Chest = 36”
Shoulder = 14”
Waist = 30”
Sleeve length = 9”
Round Arm = 13”

Constructions 

For the princess cut blouse back design:

    (1-13)   = ¼ waist + ½”
    (13-14) = 1 ½” or (1-2)
    (14-15) = ½”
    (16)      = centre of (8-6)
    (17)      = centre of (14-2)
    (17-18) = ½”
    (6-A),(13-B) & (15-C) = 1 ½”(for seam)

If u want sleeve less pattern in a princess cut blouse design:  then, (0-3) = 1/6 chest

For the front profile of a princess cut blouse design:

    (0-1) = Length + ½”
    (1-2) = 1 ½”
    (2-2′) = 1 1/2″ (in turn 1” and ½ “ for seam)
    (0-3) = 1/6 chest + 1 ½”
    (0-4) = ½ shoulder + ½”
    (4-5) = straight line
    (3-6) = ¼ chest + ¾” (for tight fitting – 1/4 ch+1/4″ (or) 1/2″
    (7-4) = 4” or 1/12 chest + 1”
    (4-10) = ½” down
    (8-3) = 1”
    (7-9-8) = front neck curve
    (11-5) = 1”
    (13) = ½”
    (1-14) = ¼ waist + ½”
    (2-15) = 1/12 chest + 1”
    (15-16) = 3/4”
    ( 12 ) = centre of (10-6)
    (6-A) & (14-B) = 1 ½” for seam

For sleeveless pattern take this measurement:   (0-3) = 1/6 chest
For sleeves:

    (0-1) = length + ½”
    (1-2) = 1 ½”
    (0-3) = 1/12 chest + 1”
    (3-4) = 1/6 chest + ¾ “
    (1-5) = ½ Round Arm
    (6-7) = ½”
    (8) = centre of (0-4)
    (8-9) = ¾”
    (10) = centre of (8-4)
    (10-11) = ¾”
    (4-a), (5-b) & (7-c) = 1 ½” (for seam)

How to cut this blouse when the back draft 3 & 6, 1 & 13 measurements are not same if we calculate and draw?
From 6 to 13 is a slanting line. (3-6)= 1/4 chest + 3/4″
(1-13) = (3-6) minus 1/2″ (or) take waist round then, calculate 1/4 waist + 1/2″

Princess Line Directed From Neckline

• Go for darted sari blouse patterns: If you’ve selected raglan style for making princess line blouse then your first requirement is to go for darted sari blouse patterns
• Create back & front patterns: For this you’ll have to make paper patterns of both back and front bodices for a darted raglan style sari blouse
• Create seam: This pattern will also feature seam allowances. First cut off all the dart lines and then cut the waistline darts towards necklines

Back Bodice Pattern for Princess Line

• Create two parts: Back bodice is quite easy to obtain. All you need is to just cut off the extra dart allowance and separate the two parts
• Create the princess line: Now take the impressions on another pattern paper while adding seam allowance at the dart line so as to create the princess line
• Shape the neckline: Now mark the notches for joining and grains for cutting
• Take the front bodice pattern: For this you’ll have to stick all the darts except the waist line dart
• Create dart manipulation: The pattern you’ve create will now result in a 3-dimensional structure. This process of transferring darts from one place to the other is technically known as dart manipulation
• Trace the outlines: Now after getting the 3D structure, press the pattern over a pattern paper and traced the outlines
• Obtain the princess line: Since the darts are now manipulated into a seam line, you’ll now obtain your princess line
• Shape the neckline: Add seam allowance to the freshly cut princess seam and shape the neckline
• Pattern cutting: Mark the notches for joining and grain lines for pattern cutting
• Get the final font patterns: For this, you’ll have to cut the patterns. And your final front patterns for princess seam blouse are ready

Please comment your suggestions,
Note; all images from pinterest.com

Support Video 

Top 10 Must-Know Hand Embroidery Stitches

If you have ever browsed through an embroidery book, especially the vintage variety, it can be a little overwhelming when trying to make sense of the different types of stitches the patterns might require. Some of the stitches may seem too challenging or perhaps laborious, but fear not, hand embroidery stitches are fun, and with practice, can become quite easy.

Let's discover the 10 best hand embroidery stitches

Once you familiarize yourself with basic stitches, you will find that they are the foundation to those more elaborate stitches that once seemed too difficult to tackle. Here are ten embroidery stitches to know as you move forward with hand embroidery.

1. Running stitch

The running stitch is good for outlining an embroidery design and is a very quick stitch to do. There are two ways to do the running stitch: the first method is similar to hand sewing and can be completed by pushing the needle and floss in and over the fabric in one continuous motion; the second method can be literally pushing the needle through the fabric and pulling it back up. I have heard this called the “punch and poke” or “stabbing” method.

2.Backstitch

Unlike the running stitch, the backstitch creates a solid line and is good for hand embroidering text or outlining a design. Begin by pulling the needle and floss up through the fabric and do one stitch forward. From underneath, space the needle out the length of your desired stitch, pull up through the fabric, and bring the needle and floss back down through the end of the previous stitch.

3. Split stitch

Similar to the backstitch, the split stitch creates a solid line with an added texture to it. This stitch is appropriate for text and outline as well, but it also works to fill designs and create variation from the running or backstitch. To begin, pull your needle and floss up through the fabric and create one straight stitch. Your needle and floss should be on the underside of your hoop. Bring the needle up through the center of the stitch you just created and stitch forward the same length as your initial stitch. Repeat by bringing the needle up through the center of each stitch.

4. Stem stitch

The stem stitch got its name from being the common stitch used for the stems of flowers or vines. I like to use this stitch for text because it can curve nicely with letters. Similar to the split stitch, you create one straight stitch forward and bring the needle and floss up underneath the fabric, but instead of going through the center of this initial stitch, you will bring the needle up just to the side of the stitch.

5. Satin stitch

A good filler stitch, the satin stitch creates a smooth appearance. I like to use this stitch to fill in hearts or the leaves of flowers. Take your needle and floss and create one stitch. Bring the needle up again just next to the opposite side of the initial stitch. Keep the stitches close to one another, as required to fill the pattern or design you are working with. 

6. French knots

This is a favorite decorative stitch for almost everyone that I know. French Knots can be used to accent designs or create fun fillers for most designs. You’ll have to use two hands to create the French Knot by bringing the needle and floss up through the fabric and wrapping the floss around the needle twice. Hold the end of the floss taut and bring the needle down just next to the space where it came out through. Keep holding the floss taut as you pull the needle through. You can vary the size of your French knots by wrapping the floss around the needle anywhere between one and three times.

7. Chain stitch

I used to think I would never learn to do this stitch, then I tried it, and now I love using the chain stitch. It makes for a great outline stitch as well as a frame for a pattern or design. Take your needle and floss and create a stitch, but before you pull the floss all the way through the fabric, allow it to form a loop. Bring the needle up through that loop in order to tether it from being pulled all the way through the fabric and pull. Place the needle either directly in the hole you just stitched, or close to it, and pull through creating another loop by not pulling the floss completely through the fabric. Pull the needle up through the loop to tether it and pull. Repeat the steps to continue the chain. When you reach the end of the chain, simply create a small stitch over the loop.

8. Lazy daisy

This is a version of the chain stitch often referred to as the "detached chain stitch" or "lazy daisy." Instead of continuing the chain, there is a small stitch made just over the end of the loop to create what looks like a daisy petal. Just like the chain stitch, take your needle and floss and create a stitch, but before you pull the floss all the way through the fabric, allow it to form a loop. Bring the needle up through that loop in order to tether it from being pulled all the way through the fabric and create a small stitch over the top of the loop. Space out the next loop or use the stitch to create a daisy. 

9. Feather stitch

Another variation of a chain stitch is the feather stitch. This stitch looks great as a frame or border to an embroidered piece. Similar to the chain stitch, you will use the second stitch to anchor the loop of the previous stitch, but this stitch covers more space. Bring the needle and floss up through the fabric and create a straight stitch, but don’t pull the floss all the way through. Allow a loop to form and bring the needle up through that loop. Space the next stitch over in the opposite direction from the previous stitch. Create another loop by not allowing the floss to go completely through the fabric. Pull the needle up through the loop and repeat on the opposite side.

10. Seed stitch

This is a good filler stitch. Depending how close or far you space out your seed stitch, you can create a wide fill or layers of floss that appear to have dimension. Imagine tossing the contents of a seed packet into the air and watching the seeds fall randomly on the ground. That same concept applies here. Bring the needle and floss up through the fabric and create a straight stitch. Bring the needle and floss up through the fabric again in a different angle. Continue until you have a filled area.

These stitches in no way comprise the totality of gorgeous hand embroidery stitches that exist, but they are exactly what you need to get you started. If you are already a seasoned embroiderer, maybe these will remind you to revisit those old tried and true stitches you may not have used in a while. I had forgotten how much the chain stitch used to intimidate me, but now, I'm so glad I tried it because it really is a fun stitch.

Source :- http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/04/hand-embroidery-stitches/

Article By :-  Kristen Valencia